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It's really easy to travel from London to Kyïv (Kyïv in Ukrainian, Kiev in Russian) by train, using Eurostar to Brussels, the City Night Line overnight sleeper to Berlin, a EuroCity train to Warsaw and the 'Kiev Express' overnight from Warsaw to Kyïv.  Or there's a direct Berlin-Kyïv sleeper train called the 'Kashtan'.  The journey can be booked in the UK with one phone call, and is an adventure in itgself.

Train times London ► Kyïv  (option 1):

• Day 1:  Travel from London to Brussels by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 18:35 (18:31 Saturdays & Sundays), arriving Brussels Midi at 21:33.

• Day 1:  Travel from Brussels to Berlin by City Night Line sleeper train, leaving Brussels Midi at 23:41 and arriving at Berlin Hauptbahnhof at 08:13 next morning.  This excellent train has sleepers, couchettes & seats plus a bistro-bar car, see the photos & information below.

• Day 2:  Travel from Berlin to Warsaw on the 'Berlin-Warszawa Express', leaving Berlin Hauptbahnhof at 12:29 and arriving at Warsaw Centralna at 18:35.  The Berlin-Warszawa Express is a modern air-conditioned 'EuroCity' service, seat reservation obligatory.  Treat yourself to a meal in the elegant restaurant car:  Three courses, a beer and a coffee will leave you change from £8..!

• You could also consider using the 'Jan Kiepura' Cologne-Warsaw sleeper train for the London-Warsaw part of the journey, as shown on the London to Poland page.  This means leaving London earlier, but can be cheaper and will give you a day in Warsaw.

• Day 2:  Travel from Warsaw to Kyïv on the 'Kiev Express' leaving Warsaw Centralna at 21:15 and arriving the next day in Kyïv at 14:40 (Day 3 from London).  The 'Kiev Express' has a Polish sleeping-car with 1st class 2-berth compartments with washbasin, and several Ukrainian 2nd class sleeping-cars with 4-berth compartments.  There is a buffet car serving tea, coffee, beer and snacks, but it's always a good idea to take your own supplies of food, water and wine or beer.  The train is shunted into the gauge-changing shed at Yagodin (the Ukrainian frontier point) and jacked up to have its wheels changed from standard European (4' 8½") gauge to Russian 5' gauge.  You remain on board while this is done.

Introducing the Brussels-Berlin City Night Line sleeper train:

The Brussels-Berlin overnight train is one of the German Railway's excellent 'City Night Line' sleeper trains.  It has brand-new sleeping-cars (1, 2 & 3-berth deluxe rooms with private shower & toilet, 1, 2 & 3-berth standard rooms with washbasin, shower at the end of the corridor, all rooms with power points for mobiles & laptop computers), modern air-conditioned couchettes (choose between a berth in a 4- or 6-berth compartment), ordinary seats (not recommended, as a couchette is far better) and a bistro-restaurant car.   Inclusive fares are charged covering travel plus sleeping accommodation.  The sleeping-car fare includes a light breakfast in the restaurant car.  Click for more pictures and information about this train.

1, 2 or 3 bed sleeper: The most comfortable & civilised option, with proper beds & washbasin.

4-berth couchettes:  Ideal for families, much more space per person than 6-berth couchettes.

6-berth couchettes:  A very economical option, far better than a seat for just a few euros more...

Bistro-bar car:  The bistro car serves meals, snacks & drinks in the evening, breakfast in the morning. Click here for more pictures & information about this train...

On board the Berlin - Warszawa Express:

Above:  The Berlin-Warsaw Express uses modern, air-conditioned coaches.  The Elegant restaurant car serves beer, snacks, wine and affordable meals.  Treat yourself..!

On board the Kiev Express from Warsaw to Kiev :

Above:  The 'Kiev Express' from Warsaw to Kyïv. Nearest the camera is a Ukrainian sleeper (one of seven) with 2nd class 4-berth compartments.  Behind it is the Polish sleeping-car with 1st class 2-berth compartments.		Above:  A 2nd class 4-berth sleeper on the 'Kiev Express'.

Train times London ► Kyïv  (option 2)

This option takes a few hours longer, but involves fewer changes of train, gives you a full day in Berlin, and can sometimes be easier to book because UK agencies such as DB's UK office can easily make you a sleeper reservation from Berlin to Kiev, but sometimes have difficulty booking the train from Warsaw to Kiev required for option 1 above.

• Day 1:  Travel from London to Brussels by Eurostar, leaving London St Pancras at 18:35 (18:31 on Saturdays & Sundays), arriving Brussels Midi 21:33.

• Day 1:  Travel from Brussels to Berlin overnight, leaving Brussels Midi at 23:41 and arriving at Berlin (Hauptbahnhof) at 08:13 next morning.  The Brussels-Berlin train is one of German Railways' excellent 'City Night Line' night expresses, with sleeping-cars, couchettes, seats & a bistro car, see the photos & information above.

• Day 2:  Travel from Berlin to Kiev on the 'Kashtan', leaving Berlin (Lichtenburg station, a short S-bahn ride from Berlin Hauptbahnhof) at 21:38 daily, travelling across Germany and Poland and arriving in Kyïv at 22:52 the next day (Day 3 from London).  The 'Kashtan' has comfortable Ukrainian 2- & 3-berth sleeper compartments with washbasin.   A Ukrainian buffet car is attached to the train between Kovel (just beyond the Ukrainian frontier) and Kyïv, serving snacks and drinks, but it's always wise to take your own supplies of food, water and wine or beer.  The train is shunted into the gauge-changing shed at Yagodin (the Ukrainian frontier point, reached around lunchtime) and jacked up to have its wheels changed from standard European (4' 8½") gauge to Russian 5' gauge.  You remain on board while this is done.

Above:  A modernised Ukrainian sleeping-car with 2- & 3-bed compartments on the Berlin-Kiev 'Kashtan'.		Above:  Most Ukrainian trains have restaurant cars like this, although the Kashtan no longer has one.

Train times Kyïv ► London  (option 1):

• Day 1:  Travel from Kyïv to Warsaw on the 'Kiev Express' leaving Kyïv daily at 13:10 and arriving at Warsaw Centralna at 06:50 next morning.  Sleeping cars (2-berth 1st class & 4-berth 2nd class) and a buffet car are available.

• Day 2:  Travel from Warsaw to Berlin on the modern air-conditioned 'Warszawa-Berlin Express', leaving Warsaw Centralna at 11:25 and arriving at Berlin Hauptbahnhof at 17:26.  An elegant restaurant car is available, treat yourself to a 3-course lunch, it isn't expensive...

• Day 2:  Travel overnight from Berlin to Brussels, leaving Berlin Hauptbahnhof at 21:26 and arriving Brussels Midi at 06:11 next morning.  Couchettes (6-bunk or 4-bunk) and sleeping-car berths (1- 2- or 3-berth standard rooms with washbasin or deluxe rooms with shower & WC) are available and there is a bistro-restaurant car.  The sleeper fare includes a light breakfast.  Click for more pictures and information about this train.

• Day 3:  Travel from Brussels to London by Eurostar.  On Mondays to Saturdays, a Eurostar leaves Brussels Midi at 06:59 arriving London St Pancras at 07:55.  On Sundays, a Eurostar leaves Brussels Midi at 07:59 arriving London at 08:56.

• You might also consider using the 'Jan Kiepura' Warsaw-Cologne sleeper train for the Warsaw-London part of the journey, as shown on the London to Poland page.  This gets you back to London later, but can be cheaper and gives you a day to explore Warsaw.

Train times Kyïv ► London  (option 2):

• Day 1:  Travel from Kyïv direct to Berlin on the 'Kashtan', leaving Kyïv daily at 08:00 and arriving Berlin (Lichtenburg station) at 07:14 the next day (arrives at 08:05 on a few dates).  The Kashtan has modernised Ukrainian sleeping cars with 2- and 3-berth compartments with washbasin, and there is a buffet car between Kyïv and Kovel.  Frequent S-Bahn trains link Berlin Lichtenburg and Berlin Hauptbahnhof, taking a few minutes.

• Day 2:  Travel from Berlin to London by day, leaving Berlin Hauptbahnhof at 09:48, changing at Cologne and Brussels to arrive back in London the same day at 19:03.  Or spend the day in Berlin and take the sleeper to Brussels for Eurostar home.  See the London to Germany page for full details.

Fares:

Deutsche Bahn (German Railways) offer a special inclusive deal from London to Berlin by Eurostar and their excellent 'nachtzug', starting at £159 return including a basic couchette.  You then need to add either the fare from Berlin to Kiev on the 'Kashtan' or  the fare from Berlin to Warsaw plus the fare from Warsaw to Kiev.  Approximate fares per person are shown below:

London to Berlin by  Eurostar + sleeper train (fare per person):	In a seat	In a couchette		In the sleeping-car (standard room)
		6-bunk	4-bunk	3-bed	2-bed	1-bed
London to Berlin, one-way, 2nd class Eurostar	£74	£78	£82	£88	£95	£141
London to Berlin, return, 2nd class Eurostar	£148	£159	£164	£175	£190	£281
London to Berlin, one-way, 1st class Eurostar	£105	£111	£113	£118	£126	£171
London to Berlin, return, 1st class Eurostar	£209	£221	£226	£236	£252	£342
Berlin to Warsaw by Berlin-Warszawa Express	About £25 one-way or £50 return 2nd class About £38 one-way or £76 return 1st class.
Warsaw to Kiev on the Kiev Express	About £37 one-way, £74 return in a 4-berth sleeper. About £81 one-way, £162 return in a 2-berth sleeper.
Berlin to Kiev on the Kashtan	About £70 one-way, £140 return with berth in 3-bed sleeper About £95 one-way, £190 return with berth in 2-bed sleeper.

How to buy tickets:

You need to buy tickets by phone as you cannot book this journey online.  Remember that reservations open 60 days in advance and you can't book until reservations open..!  The best agency to call to book these trains is the Deutsche Bahn (German Railways) UK telesales office, on 08718 80 80 66, or e-mail sales@bahn.co.uk.  Phone lines are open 09:00-17:00 Monday-Friday, no booking fee.  Alternatively, try www.europeanrail.com on 020 7619 1083 (lines open 09:00-17:00 Monday-Friday, £20 booking fee, but may have more time to help).

All the outward reservations from London to Kiev can easily be booked from the UK.  However, for the return journey, the sleeper reservation from Kiev back to Warsaw or Berlin may be more difficult to obtain from outside the Ukraine.  Deutsche Bahn sometimes hold a small allocation of berths for the return Kiev-Warsaw/Berlin journey on their computer, but not always.  If they are unable to book this part of the return journey for you, simply ask them to book the section from Warsaw or Berlin back to London and (if you like) sell you an open ticket for the Kiev to Warsaw or Berlin section.  You can easily book the return leg at the reservations office when you reach Kyïv.

The opera house, Lviv...

If Krakow has become the new Prague, then Lviv is the new Krakow...  Lviv (spelt Lviv in Ukrainian, Lvov in Russian) is a beautiful city that escaped most of the ravages of world war 2.  For accommodation in Lviv, whether your budget is 1 star or 5 star, check out the faded grandeur of the excellent and historic George Hotel.  This is the place to stay in Lviv, from just US$27 per night.

The recommended journey is London-Brussels-Cologne-Vienna-Lviv, as Vienna is linked to Lviv by a daily through sleeping-car and connections are convenient.  Train times via Prague are also shown below, although you arrive in Lviv late at night this way.  There are direct trains from Warsaw or Krakow to Lviv, but connections are not convenient and require an overnight stop in those cities.  Times via Krakow or Warsaw are not shown here, but you can check them yourself using the London to Poland page plus http://bahn.hafas.de.

Train times London ► Lviv  (via Vienna):

• Travel from London to Vienna using any of the options shown on the London to Austria page.  You arrive at Vienna Westbahnhof, use local transport round to Vienna Südbahnhof.

• A direct Ukrainian sleeping-car with comfortable 1- 2- & 3-bed compartments leaves Vienna (Südbahnhof) daily at 11:28 and arrives Lviv the next day at 08:20.

Train times London ► Lviv  (via Prague):

• Travel from London to Prague as shown on the London to the Czech Republic page.

• A direct Ukrainian sleeping-car with comfortable 1- 2- & 3-bed compartments leaves Prague (Hlavni station) daily at 21:24 and arrives Lviv the next day (24+ hours later) at 23:46.  This is a late hour to arrive, but just let the George Hotel know you'll be arriving late..!

Train times Lviv ► London  (via Vienna):

• Travel from Lviv to Vienna by direct sleeping-car, leaving Lviv at 10:01 and arriving Vienna (Südbahnhof) at 06:58 the next day.  Spend the day in Vienna.  The sleeper has comfortable, carpeted 1 2 & 3 bed rooms with washbasin.

• Travel from Vienna back to London using any of the options shown on the London to Austria page.

Train times Lviv ► London  (via Prague):

• Travel from Lviv to Prague by direct sleeping-car, leaving Lviv at 07:18 and arriving Prague (Hlavni station) at 06:48 next day (24 hours later).  The sleeper has 1 2 & 3 bed rooms with washbasin.

• Travel from Prague back to London as shown on the London to the Czech Republic page.

Fares:

See the London to Austria page for London-Vienna fares or the London to the Czech Republic page for London-Prague fares.  No information is available for fares from Prague or Vienna to Lviv, but as a rough guide it is likely to be in the region of 60-70 euros per person each way, including a bed in a 3-bed sleeper, about 90 euros with bed in 2-bed sleeper.

How to buy tickets:

Travel into the Ukraine is probably best booked through Deutsche Bahn's UK telesales office - call 08718 80 80 66 (lines open 09:00-17:00 Monday-Friday), or e-mail sales@bahn.co.uk.  Alternatively, try www.europeanrail.com on 020 7619 1083.

Outward reservations should be easy, but the return sleeper reservation from Lviv to Prague probably can't be obtained from outside the Ukraine.  Deutsche Bahn sometimes hold a small allocation of berths for the return journey on their computer, but if they are unable to book the Lviv-Prague leg for your return journey, just ask them to book the Prague-London section and book your Lviv-Prague ticket yourself when you get to Ukraine.

Believe it or not, you can travel safely and comfortably from London to Odessa on the Black Sea or Simferopol in the Crimea with just two changes, in Brussels and Berlin.

Train times London ► Odessa / Simferopol / Crimea:

• Choose a train service from London to Berlin using the London to Germany page.  A 6pm Eurostar plus the Brussels-Berlin overnight sleeper gives you a full day in Berlin, but daytime London-Berlin trains (changing trains in Brussels and Cologne) are also an option.

• For Odessa, a direct sleeping-car with comfortable Ukrainian 2- & 3-berth compartments with washbasin leaves Berlin (Lichtenburg station, an S-bahn ride from Berlin Hauptbahnhof) at 21:38 every Monday, Wednesday, Thursday & Friday, arriving in Odessa two nights later at 11:09.

• For Simferopol, a direct sleeping-car with comfortable Ukrainian 2- & 3-berth compartments with washbasin leaves Berlin (Lichtenburg station, an S-bahn ride from Berlin Hauptbahnhof) at 21:38 every Tuesday & Friday, arriving in Simferopol at 16:07 two nights later.  For connections to Sebastopol, Balaclava and Yalta, see below.

Train times Odessa / Simferopol / Crimea ► London:

• From Odessa:  The through sleepers leave Odessa at 18:23 every Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays & Saturdays, arriving Berlin (Lichtenburg station) two nights later at 07:14.

• From Simferopol:  The through sleepers leave Simferopol on Wednesdays & Sundays at 15:34 arriving Berlin (Lichtenburg station) two nights later at 07:14.

• Take a frequent local S-bahn train from Berlin Lichtenburg to Berlin Hauptbahnhof, then travel back to London on any Berlin-London service shown on the London to Germany page.

Passengers for Odessa or the Crimea can also travel daily with a change of trains in Kyïv, see the 'London to Kyïv' section above plus the Train travel in Ukraine page for information on how to find train times, fares and how to book.

Above:  This is the Berlin to Odessa sleeping-car just arrived in Odessa, attached to a Moscow-Odessa express.  Note the difference in roof profile between the cars built for use purely in Russia / Ukraine and the sleeper from Berlin, built for travel into Western Europe...		Above, right:  Carpet, curtains and varnished wood ... The corridor of the Berlin-Odessa sleeping-car.

Fares:

See the section above for the London-Berlin fares.  Berlin to Odessa costs about £82 one-way, £164 return, including a bed in a 3-berth sleeper.  Berlin-Simferopol costs £105 each way per person in a 3-bed sleeper or £138 each way per person in a 2-bed sleeper.

How to buy tickets:

You need to buy tickets by phone, as you cannot book this journey online.  Remember that reservations open 60 days in advance, you can't book until reservations open..!  Not all UK European rail agents can issue tickets to the Ukraine, but Deutsche Bahn's UK telesales office can.  Call 08718 80 80 66 (lines open 09:00-17:00 Monday-Friday, no booking fee), or e-mail sales@bahn.co.uk.  Alternatively, try www.europeanrail.com on 020 7619 1083 (lines open 09:00-17:00 Monday-Friday, £20 booking fee but may have more time to help).

Although the outward reservation is easy, the return berth reservation may be more difficult to obtain from outside the Ukraine.  Deutsche Bahn sometimes hold a small allocation of berths for the return journey on their computer, but if they are unable to book the return journey for you they can issue you with an open ticket and you can book the return leg when you reach Ukraine.

Yalta, Sevastopol & Balaclava...

Sevastopol is a naval base which was closed to foreigners until 1996. A pleasant and interesting town, it can be reached by regular local train from Simferopol, as well as long distance ones from Kiev and Moscow.  The local trains stop at Bachchysaray, where you can visit the palace of the Tartar Khans who ruled the Crimea until the 16th century.  Approaching Sevastopol, the trains meander through the hills at the site of the Battle of Inkerman (Crimean war, 1854).

Yalta, the seaside resort and site of the 1945 Yalta conference, can be reached by scenic trolleybus ride across the mountain range from Simferopol - the longest trolleybus service in the world.  See the train travel in Ukraine page for more information.

Balaclava & The charge of the Light Brigade, 1854 - Balaclava and the site of the famous 'Charge of the Light Brigade can be reached by bus or taxi from Sebastopol.  See the train travel in Ukraine page for more information.

The Thomas Cook European timetable has train & ferry times for every country in Europe, plus currency & climate information.  Published since 1873 and costing £13.50, it's essential for any serious traveller and an inspiration for armchair travellers.  More information on what the Thomas Cook Timetable contains.  You can buy the latest monthly edition online at www.thomascooktimetables.com with worldwide delivery, or buy it in person from any UK branch of Thomas Cook (ask at the bureau de change).  Or buy the independent traveller's edition from Amazon.co.uk:  Winter 2007/8 edition (December 2007 to June 2008) or Summer 2008 edition (June to December 2008). 

The Thomas Cook Rail Map of Europe is the best and most comprehensive map of train routes right across Europe, from Portugal in the west to Istanbul, Moscow & Ukraine in the east, from Finland in the north to Sicily & Crete in the south.  High speed & scenic routes are highlighted.  Highly recommended!  Buy online at www.amazon.co.uk (worldwide delivery).  See an extract from the map.

Definitely invest in a good guidebook. For the serious independent traveller the best guidebook is probably the Lonely Planet or Rough Guide.

Buy Lonely Planet Ukraine online at Amazon.co.uk

Or buy direct from the Lonely Planet website, with shipping worldwide.

My own book, an essential handbook for train travel to Europe based on this website called "The Man in Seat 61", is due to be published in June 2008, and Amazon will let you pre-order now.

Compare quotes from both Direct Line & Columbus...

Travel insurance..

Travel insurance is a boring subject, but it's a real necessity, so make sure you budget for it.  Make sure you get adequate cover - for example, at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover, from a reliable insurer.  Remember that an annual multi-trip policy is often cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just two or three trips a year.  Here are some suggested insurers to try.  Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy after clicking these links.

  If you live in the UK, get quotes from Direct Line (whom I've used myself) and Columbus Direct.

      If you live in Australia, New Zealand, Ireland or the EU, try Columbus Direct Australia.

  If you live in the USA or Canada, try Travel Guard USA.

EU health card...

UK citizens travelling in Europe should carry a European Health Insurance Card.  This replaces the old E111 forms as from January 2006.  The EHIC card is available free from www.ehic.org.uk and entitles you to free or reduced rate health care if you become ill or get injured in many European countries, under a reciprocal arrangement with the UK's NHS.

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